In every place we have been, this is the word that is applied to Mike and I and all other white people travelling about in East Africa.
"Mzungu! Mzungu!"
Children call it out from a distance when they see us--"Mzungu! Mzungu!"
BodaBoda drivers as they bike or motorcycle past us staring say, "Mzungu."
African friends call us their, "big mzungu."
Mzungu = white person. Some of the various sub-meanings are, "you don't belong here," "please come say hi to me and shake my hand," or "I'll be glad to charge you triple the African price."
For children, their next line after "mzungu, mzungu" is "how are you" (or "habari" in Swahili) and the proper response is "fine!" We then turn around and ask, "how are you" and they reply "fine!" It is polite and greatly appreciated to then shake all the childrens' hands. This illicits wide smiles.
Vincent, one of my Ugandan friends, shared with me after one of these encounters that the little boy I had encouraged and shook hands with, "will not wash his hand tonight and he will have happy dreams about mzungus. They just love you guys..."
What do I think about all this? I don't know. I know that as a white person from America, I am an anomaly in an almost universally black society. I also know that as a frankly wealthy person in a place of poverty, we are an exotic occurance to children and adults who have never travelled further than a 20 mile radius from home.
But knowing that I'm nothing special--an ordinary guy, and that these children have inestimable value before God and that they share the same status before their Creator as I do, I feel weird being treated like I'm a celebrity.
My decision has been to be warm and friendly, to touch people liberally, to communicate respect and value to people as much as I can in short encounters, to initiate "how are you's" wherever possible and to smile a lot.
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